Jim & Barbara Burton Travel: December 2014

Machu Picchu or Machu Pikchu

At some unearthly hour in the morning of Wednesday, February 19, 2014 we left Cusco to take the train to Aguas Calientes ( warm waters), now officially renamed as Machu Picchu Pueblo. Aguas Calientes or MPP is a very small town, which lies in the valley next to Machu Picchu.

During the rainy season it is not possible to take the train for the whole journey due to the frequency of mudslides. We arrived at Wanchaq Station, Cusco and were bused to Pachar Station where we embarked on our abbreviated train journey, following the swollen Urubamba River to Aguas Calientes. At the Aguas Calientes train station we were met by a very nice young man from “The Sumac”, who walked us over to our hotel. Apart from the shuttle buses there are no vehicles except for construction and maintenance purposes. No taxis. There are many levels of accommodations in this very small town from hostels to five star hotels. The Sumac was five-star which included breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner and was a lovely place to stay.

Our private guide for the trip to Machu Picchu the next day, met with us that afternoon to advise us of the protocol and what we could expect. He was very knowledgeable and kindly brought Jim a hiking pole to use for the ascent up the mountain. After our meeting, we strolled through the town of Aguas Calientes, which we found colourful, vibrant and very interesting. The narrow streets were very steep, lots of restaurants, many souvenir shops, street dogs and people. The street dogs were intriguing, as for the most part they were of the hairless variety with coats on to protect them from the sun. These dogs are not homeless. Their owners just allow them to stroll around the town all day to party with their friends, then they return home at night. After a lovely dinner we had an early night in preparation for our very early start the next morning.

Thursday morning we met our guide and took the shuttle bus to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu or Machu Pikchu as the Quechua (pronounced kechua) people call it means “old peak” Machu = old and Pikchu = peak and is a 15^th century Inca site situated 7,970 ft above sea level in the Urumbamba Province of Peru. This was considerably lower than the 14,000 feet that we encountered in Bolivia. “Almost sea level!!!!!!” However, we met people that suffered severe altitude sickness from ascending the mountain and had to be put into a hyperbaric chamber.

Machu Picchu, built by the Incas around 1450 was abandoned a century later and it is generally thought that the inhabitants died from smallpox and syphilis introduced by travelers and not conquered by the Spaniards, as many are led to believe. In 1911 Hiram Bingham, an American historian, brought international attention to this place, that until then had only been known locally. Restoration work began and by 1976 thirty per cent had been restored. Restoration is still ongoing to this day. In 1981 it was declared a Peruvian Historical Sanctuary and in 1983 a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Machu Picchu suffers natural phenomena like earthquakes and harsh weather systems but also from the pressures of too many tourists. At present the tourist limit per day is 2,500 and only 400 daily are allowed to climb the adjacent mountain Hauyna (Waynu) Picchu where more ruins are situated at the top.

Machu Picchu is breathtakingly beautiful. We spent the morning with our guide trying to take in all the historical data. It was definitely a brain overload. Then the rest of the day we were on our own. We were going to ascend to the Sun Gate but as it started raining we thought it might be a little slippery so went in a different direction. When the sun came out we decided to go ahead but lo and behold there was a rock slide on the mountain and we had to leave immediately so as not to be stuck up there all night. Although we did not make the Sun Gate we had a good view of it and the whole experience was ethereal. The terraces are a sight to behold themselves. The Llamas were re-introduced several years ago, are well adapted and breeding. They add to the authenticity. We saw some Vizcachas, small rodent like creatures seemingly a rabbit crossed with a squirrel but are closely related to Chinchillas and red-legged millipedes which are relatively harmless, if you are not given to fainting fits at the top of a mountain.

The Inca culture was very strictly structured. They were great architects, administrators and builders who built roads, irrigation systems, palaces and temples. They transported massive pieces of granite from mountains many miles away, for construction of their cities, of which modern society cannot fathom the accomplishment of such feats. The Incas did not invent or use the wheel. They had no written language, but messages were conveyed by a series of knots in ropes. Everyone in the Inca society, regardless of age or mental capability had a role to fulfill and in turn contributed to the society as a whole. They were by and large a peaceful society giving thanks to their Gods for what they had. They were true environmentalists. They used plants and herbs for medicines for which they had many remedies. It was said that they could cure Malaria with the plants at their disposal. They died out before this could be revealed to later generations. Coca leaves featured in many of their medicines, but not turned into narcotic drugs like our so-called “civilized society” of today. We thoroughly enjoyed our time with the Inca Spirits at Machu Picchu, which will live on in our memories forever.

At the end of the day we returned to the luxury of The Sumac, the wonderful staff and another great dinner.

The next day we decide to explore another part of Aguas Calientes and set off on a long hike along the railway tracks to Los Jardines de Mandor. We left The Sumac and followed the river down the hill to the Butterfly Farm. We stopped briefly at this biological breeding centre, which wasn’t really open. There are no actual butterflies just pupae and larvae, but very interesting nevertheless. We turned right here and followed the railway tracks, which ultimately take you back to Machu Picchu. There were many interesting sights both on the way there and back. We saw some very strange Tetrio Sphinx caterpillars and an amazing Blue Crowned Motmot, along with the Hiram Bingham Train.

Arriving at Los Jardines de Mandor we purchased our entrance tickets at the little café, in the middle of nowhere, across the rail tracks. On entering we walked into the Garden of Eden. This botanical garden, a natural reserve, is being restored to its natural habitat with an amazing collection of orchids, local plants, butterflies and birds. We saw beautiful blue Rhetus Periander Butterflies and Red Banded Altinotes absorbing minerals from the rocks. Nature is amazing! There were many beautiful flowers, innumerable varieties of orchids, the kinds you will never see sold in stores, hydrangeas, proteas, abutilons, gladioli and more. There were also several beautiful Catarats (waterfalls) and such peace and quiet.

On leaving our sanctuary along the train tracks we wandered back towards Aguas Calientes and were amazed that we could see The Sun Gate at Machu Picchu from this vantage point.

We enjoyed our last supper and breakfast the next morning before embarking on the train journey back to Cusco for an overnight stop and ultimately flying back to Lima and our friends at Peru Star, St. Isidra, Lima for our last night in Peru……