Guatavita & Zipaquira

Laguna de Guatavita, Zipaquira and Catedral de Sal (Salt Cathedral), Colombia

Our day began when our guide and his driver collected us from Hotel de la Opera shortly after breakfast.  We drove about 35 miles (56 kms) northeast of Bogota to Laguna de Guatavita, (Lagoon of Gauatavita) which is situated in Laguna del Cacique Guatavita Natural Park, Cundinamarca, Colombia. It lies in the high Andean forest ecosystem.  The top of the cone of the lagoon (lake) is at 3,080 metres (10,267 ft) above sea level.  Its average temperature is 13 Celsius, contains around 2 million cubic metres of water, with an average depth of 25 metres.  It is oval in shape, 400 metres at its widest point and 300 metres at the narrowest.

Arriving at the park, we obtained our passes and before our hike up the mountain, we stopped first at the Muisca, Cusmuy, (Ceremonial House), a replica of an original. Lake Guatavita was one of the most important lands of the Muisca people. The legend of “El Dorado” was said to have taken place here. The Muisca caciques (chiefs) would, during ceremonies, offer their gold adornments to their god. They would first cover their bodies in honey or sticky mud followed by gold dust.  Subsequently the chief would drop all the gold trinkets into the lake, then dive in, washing all the gold dust off.   Chib’cha is the language of the Muiscas and they lived at altitudes of between 1200 and 3200 metres above sea level in the Andean mountains close to Bogota.  They were one of the largest and most well organized groups of tribes with one of the most powerful societies and economies.  Their economy was based primarily on agriculture, followed by ceramics, using the barter system for trade.  They were very adept at growing crops utilizing the terrace system, using different altitudes for different crops, which included maize, potatoes, squash, quinoa, cotton, coca leaves, pineapple and avocado.  They were also accomplished weavers, cast gold figurines and made jewelry, some of which can now be seen in the Gold Museum, Bogota.  A project, to revive the way of life of the Muisca people, named “The Weavers of Life” (Tejedores de Vida), began in 2001, spearheaded by Carlos Mamanché, a traditional healer, spiritual, cultural and political leader, which unfortunately stalled in 2007 due to his untimely death.  It has now resumed after suffering several setbacks.

From the “Cusmuy” we walked on a dedicated trail up to Laguna de Guatavita, stopping at the first viewpoint to admire the landscape and take photos. Our guide explained the legend of “El Dorado” and how over the years people have tried, in vain; to retrieve the gold and treasures believed to be at the bottom of the lake.  However, some gold pieces worth vast sums of money have been found close to the trails either during excavation or maintenance.  These artifacts must be handed to the authorities and are subsequently put on display in the Gold Museum.  It is illegal to keep any find.  After our first stop we then trekked on to a higher vantage point with a different perspective of the lake, noting its beautiful emerald colour, probably from all of the emeralds at the bottom, that were also offerings to their gods.!!!!  There have been many theories as to how the lake came to be here in the first place, from a meteorite to a volcanic cinder, or a limestone sinkhole.  It is now believed to have occurred from salt deposits dissolving underground, causing a vast sinkhole. 

After descending back to the car park we left the beauty, serenity and spirituality of Lake Guatavita and headed to the small, but important city of Zipaquira.

Zipaquira is located 30 miles (48 kms) north of Bogota and is one of the oldest cities in Colombia, part of the “Greater Bogota Metropolitan District” and capital of the Province.  In Chib’cha, it means “Land of the Zipa”.  Zipa was the King of this territory.  Zipaquira is most famous for its nearby Salt Cathedral; however, the city itself should not be missed.  The architecture of the old city centre is of Spanish Colonial style, was founded by Don Luis Henriquez on July 18, 1600 and today has a population of approximately 120,000 people.  The region was originally inhabited by the Muisca people, dating back to 600AD, before the conquest of the Spaniards.  The buildings surrounding Plaza de Los Comuneros, alternatively known as Plaza Gonzalez Forero, were formerly painted with Republican Style green roofs and trim, but are now a vibrant blue and red, gaily contrasting with the white stucco walls.  Prominently situated in the main square is the magnificent cathedral, Catedral de la Santísima Trinidad y San Antonio de Padua (Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and St. Anthony of Padua) with its beautiful stone interior.  Other important buildings include Casa del Cabildo (City Hall) and the Salinas (Saltworks) Administration Building.  Many streets in the centre of the city are now pedestrian walkways.  Conservation and preservation are paramount in sustaining these historic buildings, providing visitors a safe environment to enjoy all that the city has to offer.  In the past, we were told that Zipaquira, suffered under guerilla activity, but now the city is a safe and welcoming place to visit.  Apart from the incredible architecture and colonial houses, there are shops, bars, typical restaurants, artisans and museums.  The most important event in Zipaquira is the Holy Week procession organized by the Nazarene Congregation. It lasts for the whole week with the most important day being Good Friday.

After bidding Zipaquira farewell we headed off to the “Salt Mines”????? 

On our arrival we were confronted by an enormous bronze sculpture of a salt miner.  Our journey to the depths of the earth began by descending a slope to reach the turnstile where we gained entry to the Salt Mine and Cathedral.  Salt has been mined in this location since the 5th century.  The “Catedral de Sal” lies approximately 200 metres below ground, under a Halite mountain and below an active salt mine.  It is one of only two such cathedrals in the world, the other being in Poland.  It is accessed by a series of tunnels, which are used for both miners and visitors alike.  Although known as The Salt Cathedral it is actually a church, as it has no bishop.  This is the second such cathedral at this site and is situated below the first, which was constructed in 1954 and dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary of Guasa, the patron saint of miners, at a cost in excess of 285 million U.S. dollars.  It was 5,500 sq metres and could hold 8,000 people.  It was closed in 1990 due to structural and safety concerns, being inside an active mine.  We were told that it has now shrunk from its original height of 22 metres, to around 1 metre.

The new cathedral began construction in 1991 and was opened in 1995.  Bogotan, Roswell Garavito Pearl, was the architect and artistic designer and the technical engineer was Bogotan, Jorge Enrique Castelblanco Reyes.   From the entrance, en-route to the main cathedral, you pass by 14 small chapels, (stations of the cross), representing Christ’s last journey. Each station has a cross and kneeling platforms carved into the Halite.  On reaching the end of the “Stations of the Cross”, before you descend to the main part of the cathedral, is a viewing area, flanked by the Angel Gabriel.  Here you can look down upon the pews and aisle below and beyond to the main altar with its monumental cross.  Set in the floor between the three sections depicting the birth, life and death of Jesus Christ is a vault, entombing a sculpture by Carlos Henrique Rodriguez, based on Michelangelo’s “Creation of Adam” which is a fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Rome.  All architectural details, icons etc., are carved into the Halite with the exception of a few marble sculptures, some of which were brought here from the “Old Cathedral” most notably the sculpture of “Our Lady of the Rosary of Guasa”, in the miners chapel.  The cathedral interior is quite surreal with the ever-changing colours, from the LED lighting.  The cathedral is one of the most notable architectural achievements in Colombian history and has been designated as “Jewel of Modern Architecture”.  It is a significant cultural and religious place for Colombians and tourists come from all parts of the world to wonder at such an amazing feat of architecture and engineering.  Three thousand people attend Roman Catholic Mass in this Cathedral every Sunday.

After a lengthy walk back through the tunnels we managed to escape the salt mine and with no further ado our guide and driver took us to a very nice restaurant for lunch/dinner as it was now mid afternoon.  As usual in this part of the world the meal was huge and very delicious.  Needless to say we were also very thirsty after “ALL THAT SALT”………………

View across the valley from Guatavita

"Cusmuy" - Muisca Ceremonial House

Bromeliad - Tillandsia Restrepoana - on the trail up to the lake

Laguna de Guatavita

Laguna de Guatavita

Barbara & Jim - Guatavita

Laguna de Guatavita

Laguna de Guatavita - Children on an educational trip

Pegamosco - Andean Shrub, Laguna de Guatavita

Catedral de la Santísima Trinidad y San Antonio de Padua 

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and St. Anthony of Padua

Catedral de la Santísima Trinidad y San Antonio de Padua 

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and St. Anthony of Padua

Magnificent interior stone work

Catedral de la Santísima Trinidad y San Antonio de Padua 

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and St. Anthony of Padua

Casa del Cabildo

City Hall

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Salinas Administration Building

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Zipaquira - Plaza de Los Comuneros or

Plaza Gonzales Forero

Bronze Sculpture of Salt Miner outside the Mine

Zipaquira

Tunnel to access the Salt Mine & Cathedral

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

One of the 14 stages of Christ's Journey with the Cross

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

One of the 14 stages of Christ's Journey with the Cross

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Miners' Chapel with Our Lady of the Rosary of Guasa

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Christ on the Cross

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Heralded by the Angel Gabriel

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Sculpture in the floor by Carlos Henrique Rodriguez, 

based on Michelangelo’s “Creation of Adam” 

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Catedral de Sal de Zipaquira, Colombia

Salt Cathedral

Barbara in the Salt Cathedral

Cartagena here we come…………………..

Bogota, Colombia

Bogota, Colombia

After our amazing adventure and the equatorial temperatures of the Galapagos we arrived at El Dorado International Airport, March 10, 2014 and much cooler weather.  Our Hotel de la Opera, located in the historic “La Candelaria” district, had sent a driver to meet us.  We had beautiful accommodation, with a view from the window of Monserrate.  The hotel is adjacent to “Teatro de Cristobal Colon”, the National Theatre and Opera House, inaugurated October 27, 1892.  Unfortunately, during our stay in Bogota, it was closed for renovations and reopened in July, just four months after we left.  It had been closed since 2008.   On the opposite side of the road is the Palace of San Carlos, built in 1585.   It has had many different occupants, but is now The Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Map of La Candelaria with Hotel de la Opera

 “La Candelaria” is the historic downtown neighbourhood of Bogota and is home to government, museums, old churches, universities, libraries and other old buildings, in architectural styles of the Baroque period, Spanish Colonial and Art Deco.  The cobbled streets are narrow, with very colourful buildings and were not built to accommodate motorized vehicles.   In the Botero Museum housed on 11^th street you can view the paintings and sculptures of world-renowned artist and sculptor, Ferdinand Botero, along with his collection of Picasso’s, Chagall’s, Monet’s and other celebrated artists.  Botero’s art is all somewhat satirical and many of his paintings seem to be very obese people.  However, these people were not fat, we were told that he painted them with “voluminous disproportionalism” in order to make us, the onlookers, laugh.  He most certainly achieved that goal.  He also painted “his” versions of other famous paintings such as the Mona Lisa and her enigmatic smile.  Botero began his artistic career, after his father died of a heart attack when he was just four years old.  At the age of six, we were told, he started drawing and selling pencil portrait sketches of patrons at the local racetrack, to help out with the family finances.  From his humble beginnings he developed his own style, which is now highly prized and sells for millions of dollars.  Ferdinand Botero, is at this juncture almost 84 years old.  In an adjoining building, across the courtyard, is housed the Museum of the Mint, a numismatic collection of coins depicting the history of Colombia and the place where the first gold coins were struck.  There are many museums in Bogota, but one of the most important and truly amazing was the Gold Museum, Museo del Oro.  This museum houses the largest collection in the world of Pre-Hispanic gold work, including the famous Muisca’s Golden Raft, found in Pasca in 1969, which represents the El Dorado ceremony.  This ceremony is where the heir to the chieftaincy assumed power with great offerings to the gods.  He stood in the centre of a raft adorned with gold, surrounded by the principal chieftains who were also adorned in gold. 

La Candelaria is the vibrant heart of the old city.  It is now considered a safe neighbourhood with throngs of university students coming and going to classes, or visiting the libraries.  There are many tiny “hole in the wall” places to eat here called Aguapanelarias or Mecateaderos (a place to meet with friends for an Aguapanela  and a snack) that have exceptionally good food.  La Puerta Falsa, of course, being the most famous for its Aguapanela (a drink, be it coffee, hot chocolate etc., with a base made from sugar cane) with almojabanas (Colombian Cheese Buns), which are eaten for breakfast or an afternoon snack.  La Puerta Falsa was the only Aguapanelaria to survive the fire of April 9, 1948, which destroyed all the others in this same block.  There is very little room to sit in any of these establishments, especially during the day.  When I say very little room, I mean that the establishments themselves are like the very small front room of a very tiny row –house, which are packed wall to wall with people, but it is worth it.  We dined at two of these places in the evening, in the same block, the food was delicious and the cost very reasonable.  Ajiaco, a chicken, corn and potato soup/stew is famous in Bogota, very, very, delicious and filling.  The ears of the corn, are cut into pieces and cooked whole, the kernels are not removed.  In September, after our visit, Anthony Bourdain met Hector Abad at La Puerta Falsa for ajiaco, tamales and hot chocolate with cheese.

A very short walk down the hill from the Hotel de la Opera is the main square of Bogota, “Plaza de Bolivar”. In the centre stands a statue of Simon Bolivar (a Venezuelan Statesman who led South America’s independence from the Spanish).   On the north side of the square is the Palace of Justice, housing the Supreme Court.  On the south side is the National Capitol building, seat of the Columbian Congress.  To the east is The Primary Cathedral of Bogota and the Holy Chapel and to the west, a French style building, “Palacio Leviano” which is the Mayor’s seat.   Situated in the northwest corner is a small 16th/17th century colonial building, Casa del Florero, also known as the “vase house”, from where, on July 20, 1810, Bogota patriots took to the streets to declare their independence.  In the southeast corner is the Colegio Mayor of San Bartolome, formerly a Jesuit university, now a secondary school.

The Palace of Justice is the third and current building on this site.  The first built in 1921 was destroyed by fire in 1948, the second was destroyed by the guerilla movement M-19 in 1985, during the Palace of Justice Siege and the site was left untouched until 1989 when the third building was erected.

The National Capitol building was started in 1846 but not completed until 1926 due to political instability.

The Primary Cathedral of Bogota was built between 1807 and 1823 and the Holy Chapel in the 17^th century.

Iglesia de San Ignacio is a beautiful Jesuit Church, adjacent to the Colegio Mayor of San Bartolome.  Construction began in 1610 and was completed in 1691 and has recently undergone renovation.  The church is very famous for its Holy Water.  While not directly attributed to San Ignacio de Loyola who founded the Jesuit Church it is widely assumed that Jesuit Holy Water is more potent than regular Holy Water for its curative powers.

Iglesia San Agustin is a Colonial Church with a magnificent Baroque interior.

Iglesia del Carmen was built in 1927 and architecturally probably the most striking church, in Bogota.  It is Gothic in style and was declared a National Monument in 1993.

A stroll down 7^th Avenue brought us to the more modern part of the city.  Nestled among these new buildings are some more old churches, Iglesia de la Veracruz being one of them.  This church is quite plain and its interior somewhat austere, not elaborately decorated as most of the churches in Bogota.  It was built around the mid 1500’s and is probably the oldest building in the city.   It is also known as the National Pantheon for all the heroes buried within.

Emeralds are a major symbol of Colombia and it has, without doubt, the most beautiful in the world, therefore, it would be remiss not to visit the Emerald Museum, located at the top of The Avianca Building.  This is not a Museum as such, but rather a private collection of emeralds both cut and uncut with some still embedded in rock.  The start of the tour is in a small theatre where you watch a video showing the different mines and mining techniques, followed by some tableaus of mine excavation.  After this a lady tours you around the various showcases and explains more about the emeralds themselves.  There is also a shop where you can purchase the gems.

Seventh Avenue, once known as Royal Street, was constructed in the 16^th century to connect Plaza de Bolivar with Plaza de San Francisco.  Many important buildings were constructed along this avenue until they, along with the tramway, were burned in 1948.  The destruction and burning was due to retaliation, of the assassination of Jorge Eliécer Gaitán.  In the second half of the 20^th century another resurgence in building took place.  7^th Avenue is pedestrian only in many parts, where families and tourists alike enjoy the vibrancy of the street vendors, clowns, musicians, actors and dancers, in this now safe environment.  Peaceful political demonstrations still take place here, from time to time, and from here they head to the Plaza de Bolivar.  We walked along 7^th Avenue several times during our week in Bogota and at no time felt uncomfortable.  However, caution should always be taken in any big city, anywhere in the world, especially late at night.

Of course, a trip to Bogota would not be complete without a visit to Monserrate.  We walked from Hotel de la Opera, through the streets of Bogota, arriving at Avenida de Jiménez de Quesada and followed the Eje Ambiental, which ultimately leads to Monserrate.   Avenida de Jiménez de Quesada is built over The San Francisco River and was transformed into a promenade, with native trees, a brick paved Plaza and the Eje Ambiental running through the centre.   The “Eje Ambiental”(environmental axis) looks as though it has a purpose, maybe part of the river underneath, but it is purely ornamental as it gently cascades, meandering along its sloping course, with its only purpose being to please.  We finally came to the end of the promenade and then climbed a steeper part of the hill before we reached the funicular to take us to the top.  There was a long queue for tickets but it moved reasonably quickly.

We were transported up the mountain, Monserrate, which has an elevation of 3,152 metres above sea level (10,341 ft), by the funicular. After alighting we passed by a garden of torch lilies where numerous hummingbirds, of different species, were drinking the nectar.  From here we walked up the hill passing many sculptures depicting Christ’s walk with the cross.  At the top is the Church and Shrine to “El Señor Caído” (The Fallen Lord), which was built in the 17^th century and is a pilgrim destination. Most pilgrims choose to climb up the mountain.  It is an awesome site, both inside and out, with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains and overlooking the city.  Atop one of the mountains sits Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Gualdelupe which has no funicular, an unpaved road, sits at an elevation of 3,300 metres above sea level (10,827 ft), but unfortunately we did not have time to visit.  Apparently, it has a simple sanctuary, originally erected in 1656, but destroyed four times by earthquakes.  A specialized guide is recommended for this trip.

This was not the end of our visit in Bogota.  We spent one of our days at Guatavita and Zipaquira which will be covered in the next blog………………….See if we get out of the salt mine……………………………..!!!!!

Teatro de Cristobal Colon - The National Theatre

Hotel de la Opera adjacent to Teatro de Cristobal Colon

 Hotel de la Opera - Internal Courtyard

Barbara & Jim -  the roof top restaurant
Hotel de la Opera

Palacio de San Carlos - Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Opposite Hotel de la Opera

Schoolchildren opposite Hotel de la Opera on an outing

Typical street in "La Candelaria"

Iglesia de la Candelaria 

View from "La Candelaria" to Plaza de Bolivar

La Puerta Falsa Plaque - The False Door - "Cafe"

The False Door - Mecateadero (Cafe)

National Capitol Building

National Capitol Building

Colegio Mayor San Bartolome

Primary Cathedral & Holy Chapel

Simon Bolivar Statue

Palacio Leviano

Plaza Bolivar - Llama Rides

Palace of Justice

Iglesia de San Ignacio

Colegio Mayor San Bartolome - "School is out"

Courtyard garden - La Candelaria

Barbara with a Presidential Palace Guard

Presidential Palace Guards

Iglesia de San. Agustin

Iglesia de San Agustin

                                         Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen

                                                   Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Pre-Hispanic Mask - Gold Museum

Huge Uncut Emeralds - Gold Museum

Gold Museum - Pre-Hipanic artifact

Gold Museum - cat

Gold Muisca Raft

Barbara with young girl in National Costume

Botero Museum - Courtyard

Jim at the Botero Museum

What a body!!!!

The Thief - Ferdinand Botero

The Workshop - Ferdinand Botero

Mona Lisa - Ferdinand Botero

The Bathroom - Spot the Peeping Tom

Terra Moto - The Earthquake - Botero

Botero Museum Courtyard

Botero Museum Courtyard

View of Montserrate from Botero Museum

7th Avenue - Street Vendor selling Mamoncillos - 

a tangy tropical fruit

7th Avenue - Street Vendor selling Coconuts

Iglesia de la Veracruz

View from The Emerald Museum, Avianca Building

Jim alongside the (Environmental Axis)

Eje Ambiental de la Avenida de Jiménez de Quesada 

Street art - Avenida de Jiménez de Quesada 

Church and Shrine of El Senor Caido - Monserrate 

Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Gualdelupe

Torch Lilies and Hummingbirds at Monserrate

Torch Lilies and Hummingbirds at Monserrate

Torch Lilies and Hummingbirds at Monserrate

Torch Lilies and Hummingbirds at Monserrate

Crucifiction Sculpture - Monserrate

Crucifiction Sculpture - Monserrate

Crucifiction Sculpture - Monserrate

Crucifiction Sculpture - Monserrate

Barbara at Monserrate

Inside the church at Monserrate

Inside the church at Monserrate

View of Bogota from Monserrate

View of Plaza de Bolivar and La Candelaria from Monserrate

Monserrate

Monserrate

Monserrate

Monserrate

Monserrate

Funicular at Monserrate

Crucifix at the Base of Monserrate