Friday 28 December 2012

South Island - Renwick, Greymouth & Fox Glacier


South Island – Renwick, Greymouth & Fox Glacier

We sailed across the Queen Charlotte Sound on the Aratere through spectacular Fjords.  We docked around 5:40 pm, picked up our late model rental car (2006!!!) and made our way to Renwick to the charming Olde Millhouse B&B.  Robert & Diane, our hosts greeted us on our arrival and showed us to our beautiful room and en-suite.  We spent two nights here being spoiled with very comfortable accommodation and wonderful continental breakfast including Diane’s home-made preserves and muesli.  Robert & Diane’s garden is a spectacular English cottage style garden along with dog Jasper and the aviary of lovebirds.  See garden photo.

Whilst at the Olde Millhouse we went to Kaikoura to go whale watching and saw a huge sperm whale that languished beside our boat for around 20 minutes before diving back to the depths.  We were also privileged to be joined by a group of Dusky Dolphins who entertained us for quite a while.  In fact we had to say goodbye to them not vice versa.  We also saw several types of Albatross and also Giant Petrels.  (Seabirds for anyone not into birdlife)

On our return journey we stopped along the coast where we encountered a fur seal colony.  How captivating to see these amazing creatures in their natural environment totally unaware of being watched.  See photo.

On Wednesday morning we bade our hosts farewell and made our way to Greymouth via Nelson and Westport.  On arriving in Nelson we were quite amazed to find this seaside town just bursting with people finishing their Christmas Shopping.  It was literally bursting at the seams, with nowhere to park.  Apparently it has become a refuge for displaced persons after the earthquake in Christchurch.  We drove around the town just to get a look-see and continued our journey westwards.  We stopped in a quaint little village for coffee at a charming tearoom.  The village and the tearoom were typically English and we thoroughly enjoyed our stopover.  Continuing onwards in the pouring rain we suddenly came to a screaming halt.  There had been a huge rock-slide, which was blocking the whole road.  Higher up was a very large boulder that was just hanging by a thread.  They were using a helicopter to water bomb the boulder as we sat waiting for about three quarters of an hour until the helicopter needed to refuel.  The big excavator standing by, cleared the big pile of rocks that had come down and we were able to proceed very carefully!!!!!!  Once again, on our way, we drove to Westport a pretty non-descript coastal town and forward on to Greymouth.  We stopped several times on our way to photograph the angry Tasman Sea.  The coastline was spectacular yet daunting.  We arrived in Greymouth and stayed in a very nice Motel called The Alpine Rose.  Stacey the daughter-in-law, standing in for her in-laws, was very hospitable and helpful.  After our soggy drive the day before, Wednesday proved to be a glorious day, blue sky and sunshine.  We drove back up the coast to see the famous Pancake rocks and blowholes that we missed the day before due to the inclement weather.  The rocks are an absolutely amazing phenomena and look like thousands of mud pancakes piled one on top of the other.  We also went to the little village of Moana at the top end of Lake Brunner.

We left Greymouth Thursday morning to drive to Fox Glacier and stopped first at Hokitika, a nice little coast town famous for its jade. Next stop was Hokitika Gorge which is an amazing turquoise colour, traversed by a swing bridge.  Totally remote and incredibly beautiful.  The weather en-route was perfect and we arrived at the White Fox B&B and were greeted by Garry, Megan and Isla.  Jayne arrived shortly afterwards and we had a cup of tea.  They welcomed us to their home and made us very comfortable.  After giving us some local information we drove out to Lake Matheson, known as Reflections Lake where we did a short hike culminating in a magnificent view of both Mt. Tasman and Mt. Cook.  From there we drove to another viewpoint and had a magnificent view of The Fox Glacier.
Queen Charlotte Sound - on the Ferry
Queen Charlotte Sound - on the Ferry
Olde Millhouse B&B
On the Way to Kaikoura
Kaikoura - Sperm Whale


Ohau Point Seal Colony


Rock Slide between Nelson & Westport


The Coast between Westport & Greymouth


The Coast between Westport & Greymouth
The Coast between Westport & Greymouth


Greymouth


Pancake Rocks - Punakaiki
Blowhole at Punakaiki


Beach at Hokitika


Jim at Hokitika
Hokitika Town Clock


Hokitika Gorge & Swing Bridge


Hokitika Gorge & Swing Bridge
Barbara at Hokitika Gorge on the Swing Bridge


Mt. Tasman & Mt. Cook from Lake Matheson
Fox Glacier



Jim & Barbara at Viewpoint for Fox Glacier
Wild Billy Falls between Fox Glacier & Queenstown


Lake Wanaka


Barbara in the Lupins - Crown Pass


Lupins - Crown Pass


Looking down on Queenstown from Crown Pass

After a lovely breakfast on Friday morning we bade our goodbyes to the White Fox and started our drive towards Queenstown.  After the perfect day on Thursday we left in torrential rain.  Our plan to visit and walk on Fox Glacier proved to be impossible.  We drove on through thick mountain clouds and heavy rain for quite some time.   As we travelled, the rain lessened and we stopped at Wild Billy Gorge to photograph these roaring waterfalls.  Shortly after crossing another range and driving alongside Lake Wanaka the rain stopped and the sun came out.  From Wanaka to Queenstown we took the road through Crown Pass.  It started at a low altitude with wild lupins blooming along the creeks and roadside creating a myriad of colour and ascending to the highest paved road in New Zealand, The Crown Pass at a 1,046 metres above sea level.  At the top we were treated to magnificent views of Arrowtown and Queenstown……………………

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